Heres a new question for this thread (and yes I have used the search button). Im going to spray 150 with a fogger. Im freshening up the shortblock but using the stock components. Is it worth it to change to a nitrous ring? It will probably be around the 625hp/550ftlb mark on the spray (speculation). Also, what bearings should I use? Any certain brand that seems to last longer with the added stresses of nitrous or F.I.? Should I stud the bottom end while Im in there?

Oh yeah, this is a 98 LS1. It will have ARP rod bolts and an upgraded oil pump when it goes back together. It will be in a 2800# car too.

 

If you want to change from a nozzle system, I would go with a plate kit, or plate add on to existing kit, and believe that HSW has the plate only. Also, you can do wet or dry plate kits now. The other option would be to go DP, and there again you can do wet or dry, the dry DP can use the stock PCM and will need th "Interface" fuel/timing controller. So many new innovative products out there for us n2o guys. I am also upgrading from nozzles, but besides my DP Dry 1st stage, the second that uses nozzles will be changed out to a HSW Dry plate or to a NX 90mm Dry MAF, another innovative product that's coming. Good luck on your choice for upgrading. Oh, change out your rod bolts while you are there, and if ya can swing it, put some forged pistons in it. That was the thing that let go on my stock block-a ring land, but otherwise it was bone stock.
Robert

 

ran her 2wks ago and my afr went sky high on 100wet, timing was at 18 but the low oct was set 3 deg below stock. 4runs like that,wot and some kr, 93oct. denso It 22 plugs set at .040, my fuel noid was intermittently not opening. that's fixed now. this pitbull of an ls1 is still running smooth. ckd. the plugs and they look good. will try to blow her up on a 200shot. i swear, i THINK TIMING HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE PITBULLS NINE LIVES.

 

Thank you for the info and wisdom..

 

i got 66k on the clock... want to go cam/heads/nitrous...

good idea??

what should i do to reinforce the engine, besides a good tune?

 

You will be fine and hell yeah its a good idea. As long as you have a good tuner you will never have to worry

 

Thanks for the info...

 

hate to stretch this sticky anymore, but everyone should know how stout this motors are. ran her again on tues and tonight, 8 times total, wot. and got a best of 11.457et and 123.25mph with the 100shot tonight. my first run did hit 14.4afr {not good} tonight but the rest were all between 10.5 11.4 afr. no doubt, continuing to hit the motor with lean afrs will eventually hurt it.

 

good write up

 

So at what point should the progressive go 100% to safely run 200+ on a completely stock (never had the oil pan, valve covers off) bottom end 98 motor? I am a nitrous junkie and just swapped over from 5.0 mustangs for the past 9 or so years... Why didn't I see the light before!

 

Former Stang owner here too. A 200 shot on stock bottom, myself i would have it all in by the late 4000rpms or the low 5000rpms, just depends on what you feel comfortable with. My normal set-up was about 125 on launch (6 speed and IRS) with stage 2 lock out of 1st gear for traction, then the remainder of hit would come on in the high 4000rpms in 2nd gear and both would run full on to red line. Remember this was staged, but basically you can do the same with progressing, though I don't like progressing on wet hits, but that's another story.
Robert

 

On a two stage setup would this be done with two nozzles, stacked plates, a nozzle and a plate, direct port and a plate, the combinations are endless? I have always heard that stacking plates on a carb motor was not the safest thing to do, but havent heard any talk of it on fuel injected applications... Not a newb to nitrous, just to the LS1 platform... Thanks for the help by the way...

 

Your right, the combos are endless. currently i run a DP Dry as stage 1, a dual nozzle dry as stage 2, and 3rd stage also dual dry nozzles. however, this is changing, with all nozzles going in the dumpster, 2nd stage will be a dry plate, and 3rd stage will be a Dry MAF. But you get the idea, what ever you like can be made to work. Some like single stages running a big shot and just progressing it, I like the multi staging as many more options are available at the flip of a switch or two.
Robert

 

Nitrous Related Wiring

LOTS of pictures and info here, so I will link to the pictures

MECA of wiring diagrams fquick of them
Roberts wiring guides
TNT Wiring

 

sprayed the 200 on 18th. the first run, the clutch slipped in every gear, the afr was 12.25 on average, 78n 41f, timing was 10 deg. retarded from n/a timing values. i used motor sport vp109 and denso it 27, the gap set at .035. on the sencond run, the ls7 clutch gripped but the eng. went rich. so i backed off. i drove 60mi to home and the eng. still purrs smooth like a cat, for now anyways. the next day, i made a thorough visual inspection of all the fittings and also looked at the noids for any debris, all looked normal. ckd. my bottle wt. and it read 31.1lbs, good enough for the show. i arrived at the track on fumes, the fuel trip display showed i had zero mi. left to go and continued to idle for an additional 20 mins. or so and never ran out, i filled the tank with 5gals of ms 109, still on the it27s at .035. i made a total of 3 passes, the first one was n/a, ran 12.533et, 111.08mph, the sixty could have been better 4krpm launch and the clutch held well. 1.834, afr was 13.08 on average. the next pass was on the pills, 78n/41f. 1st gear was the afr was 11 avg., 2nd 11.3, both lasted very short time, 3rd started out at 11.3 and progressively went richer to 10.97, not a terrible drop! 4th was similar 11.53 to 10.67,
the plugs looked good, the timing mark was near the corner of the strap, the pass came in at 11.803et, 125.73mph with a 1.803 60'. very disappointing for sure, considering i went 11.454 and 123mph on the 100 pills. the second pass afr curve was very similar, 1st and 2nd were very flat 11.7, 3rd went lean to rich 11.7 to 11.3, and 4th started at 12.38 and took a huge dip at the end 10.4. i did leaned out the pe by .5 for the pass. fuel and oil pressures were stable and normal, ect rise was only 5deg from beggining to end. i wish there was some way to monitor fuel flow to get a better picture of what's going on. anyway, the eng. still running smooth, next time, i'm going back to the 100 and i'm gonna spray it all at once at 4000rpm just to see if the eng. still healthy, and of course i'll use sunnoco 93. and after that the 200 again. i hope this info helps someone else.

 

well, sprayed the 100 shot all out, but this time i threw the slicks on, i was on the hoosier previously, the car ran strong, but 2 wks. ago the diff. gave out. i ran it last wk and got kicked out with the 100. i think, i solved the going rich issue, so next fri. i'll try the 200, but with gt104 and it27plugs.

 

LOL at the 350 shot... I like that

 

Nice GTO Jet

 

Oh I have seen a stock fox body get open hosed lol

 

I am putting an LS1 in an 82 S10 short bed standard cab. It was 30,000 on the clock (the motor). Carb set up with the tunable MSD 6010, T-Rex cam, Fully ported heads with a 5 angle valve job and cut 0.040 to up compressions, piston's have been flycut to clear. TH-400 custom stall 3800, 9in. with 5.00 gears, shorty header's, and I am doing a stand alone fuel system for the nitrous with 116. oh ya 28in. tires

Does any one have any idea what I can spray on it I would like to do a 200+ or what kind of power this might put down? to the wheels I'm not concerned with flywheel hp.