heres how to wire an LC1 to work as a Wideband and a Narrowband at the same time
heres how to wire an LC1 to work as a Wideband and a Narrowband at the same time I decided to do a little writeup of how to make an LC1 act as a wideband and a narrowband so that other people could use their device in a stock o2 location/bung and power it from the front stock o2 conector...(meaning you dont need a stock narrowband sensor in that spot)
you will also find that O2 lifespan is approximately the same as the stock narrowbands when it is done this way
LC1 Connections
Its a little rough...but you will get the idea
I'm sure it applies to other devices as well...just might not be the same color codes on teh wideband iteself.
the LC1 come pre-configured from the factory with output 1 set up for narrowband(its close enough..you can tweak it to get it more exact)and analog 2 as the wideband output..
I have a junction box inbetween my wideband side and the EIO that has my status LED and my calibration momentary switch in it..
I am also using Neutrik Speak-On NL4's as my quick connect/disconnect for Juction Box as I run the cable up through the door hinge area on the car to get it inside..and that box just aint going to fit through that crack...LOL
According to Innovative Motorsports it is not necessary to preheat the sensor...just turn the key and start the car like normal.
letting them pre heat can cause condensation to form in some climates. This condensation can shorten the life of the sensor
I also suggest setting the wideband output resolution to a smaler value than its default
output of the Wideband side should be set to 1/12 or 1/6th second output-update rate
output of the Narrowband side should be set to 1/6th second output-update rate(best simulate the response of the stock o2 sensor
you will also find that O2 lifespan is approximately the same as the stock narrowbands when it is done this way
LC1 Connections
Its a little rough...but you will get the idea
I'm sure it applies to other devices as well...just might not be the same color codes on teh wideband iteself.
the LC1 come pre-configured from the factory with output 1 set up for narrowband(its close enough..you can tweak it to get it more exact)and analog 2 as the wideband output..
I have a junction box inbetween my wideband side and the EIO that has my status LED and my calibration momentary switch in it..
I am also using Neutrik Speak-On NL4's as my quick connect/disconnect for Juction Box as I run the cable up through the door hinge area on the car to get it inside..and that box just aint going to fit through that crack...LOL
According to Innovative Motorsports it is not necessary to preheat the sensor...just turn the key and start the car like normal.
letting them pre heat can cause condensation to form in some climates. This condensation can shorten the life of the sensor
I also suggest setting the wideband output resolution to a smaler value than its default
output of the Wideband side should be set to 1/12 or 1/6th second output-update rate
output of the Narrowband side should be set to 1/6th second output-update rate(best simulate the response of the stock o2 sensor
Last edited by soundengineer; Dec 11, 2005 at 06:18 PM.
that part was a picture made from the LC1 PDF manual...
both Kathode and Cathode are acceptable spellings according to dictionary...("K" considered old school "C" considered new school)
and Kathode was original spelling.....but it later was revised for schematics reasons so it wouldnt step on oter things...they then changed it to a C....
toe-may-toe/toe-mah-toe
both Kathode and Cathode are acceptable spellings according to dictionary...("K" considered old school "C" considered new school)
and Kathode was original spelling.....but it later was revised for schematics reasons so it wouldnt step on oter things...they then changed it to a C....
toe-may-toe/toe-mah-toe
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Someplace high in the Himalayas
Is it really worth the trouble to hook the WB up as both WB and NB? I'm only going to need it for tuning. Will using it everyday kill it? Do I need to let it heat up before starting the car? If I do have a bung welded into my 05' GTO exhaust, should it be pointing in the same direction as the stock O2, but located just a couple inches in front of it?
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Verdad Gallardo you should start the car as normal when you have it in as the exhaust will help blow/burn off any possible condensation and other debris and suit that may be on the sensor..
if you leave it in as a full time sensor it will last about the same length of time as a stock o2 if you treat it like a stock o2...
no need for pre heat up before you start the car...and innovate motorsports suggests that you do not pre heat for condensation reasons..
it is not necessary to wire up the sensor to both wide and narrow...but the write up is there for those that want to
if you leave it in as a full time sensor it will last about the same length of time as a stock o2 if you treat it like a stock o2...
no need for pre heat up before you start the car...and innovate motorsports suggests that you do not pre heat for condensation reasons..
it is not necessary to wire up the sensor to both wide and narrow...but the write up is there for those that want to
Excellent write-up. I'm new to this as well, if I wasn't to wire the LC-1 as both a narrow and wideband, whats the alternative? Welding in a new o2 bung, or do you guys just pull one of the stock sensors and replace it w/ the wideband for tuning? Will that not throw off the PCM?
Originally Posted by FstBlkz28
Excellent write-up. I'm new to this as well, if I wasn't to wire the LC-1 as both a narrow and wideband, whats the alternative? Welding in a new o2 bung, or do you guys just pull one of the stock sensors and replace it w/ the wideband for tuning? Will that not throw off the PCM?
Thanks for the writeup Scott!
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
Here's how I did mine...
The 4 way connector contains: heater power, heater ground, analog output 1 (NBO2 High), analog ground (NBO2 Low).
The 3 way connector contains: analog output 2, calibration, system ground.
The 6 way connector contains: serial in, serial out.
The 4 way connector contains: heater power, heater ground, analog output 1 (NBO2 High), analog ground (NBO2 Low).
The 3 way connector contains: analog output 2, calibration, system ground.
The 6 way connector contains: serial in, serial out.
Last edited by joecar; Feb 6, 2006 at 04:40 PM.
Originally Posted by code4
Can I do this with my LM-1? I already purchased the LM-1. Sorry if this is a stupid question. I am just getting started on this, waiting for my HP Tuner to arrive.
I have not tried to wire the LM1..but I believe it would be the same for the analog outs...
analog for wideband to the A/D input of the scanning device...
Analog for narrowband goes to o2 sensor.
ground for analog goes to A/D Ground
extra ground from o2 ground goes to A/D Ground
analog for wideband to the A/D input of the scanning device...
Analog for narrowband goes to o2 sensor.
ground for analog goes to A/D Ground
extra ground from o2 ground goes to A/D Ground
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Someplace high in the Himalayas
If you hook the LC-1 up as a wideband, and you are fooling around with HPtuners to dump the PCM, wouldn't that be heating the O2 for 3-5 minutes while its dumping? Then if you were to start the car, wouldn't it kill it?
you would in a sense be using the time sitting there to warm up the sensor...
I have actually added an on off switch to make it so I can do that without the wideband being on all the time...
also go to a stable power source like the fusebox...I found out thru a little creative research that the stock o2 sensor power switches on and off about 240 times a second...which is bad for the LC1...causing a shorter life of the LC1 itself and causing possible ground issues as well..
I have actually added an on off switch to make it so I can do that without the wideband being on all the time...
also go to a stable power source like the fusebox...I found out thru a little creative research that the stock o2 sensor power switches on and off about 240 times a second...which is bad for the LC1...causing a shorter life of the LC1 itself and causing possible ground issues as well..
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
Originally Posted by soundengineer
I found out thru a little creative research that the stock o2 sensor power switches on and off about 240 times a second...which is bad for the LC1...causing a shorter life of the LC1 itself and causing possible ground issues as well..
What are you talking about...?
I checked my wire diagram, it shows NBO2 heater power comes thru two fuses (IGN, ENG SEN) and the Ignition Relay;
there's nothing there to pulse it.
I put a scopemeter on the NBO2 heater and ground wires and it says 0 Hz;
it's flat DC, no pulsing.
Joe
Last edited by joecar; Feb 28, 2006 at 10:24 AM.